Chevy Dash light And Temp Gauge Indicator Light Fuse

Dash Light And Temperature Gauge Indicator Light Stopper Working

I would verify that the i/p fuse box on the left side of the dash has all the connectors seated. I would also verify that there are no chaffed wires that feed the drivers seat,and also the passenger door. As far as the rt speaker not working,check for wires shorting out to ground,and if it has an amp check to make sure the output for the rt speaker is working.

Getting a static shock when exiting the vehicle is not uncommon. It depends on the seat fabric,weather,and clothing. I have used a spray static guard on seats to lessen the occurrences. It does not indicate a problem with the vehicle.

MBEC 1 fuse blew again thus disabling the driver seat and passenger right windows. I replaced this fuse at that time and the seat a windows have been working fine. However, my dash/Instrument lights and the compass/temperature indicator light on the rear view mirror stopped working. 

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The I/P lamp dimming control is operated through the body control module. So all TBC marked fuses need to be verified they have power ( not just is the fuse good) Take a test lamp and verify there is actually power at the fuse. In the under hood fuse box the fuses should be marked ( TBC BATT ; TBC IGN 1) In the I/P fuse box the fuses should be marked TBC 2a ; TBC 2b ; TBC 2c ; TBC ign 0 ; TBC accy. The body control module is located just under the steering column, and has several plugs. The dimming control circuit comes out of the body control module ( BCM) and is sent to all the components that need light dimming control. This circuit passes through the relay junction block under the left side of the dash and the IPC junction box , on either end of the dash. ( This is why I ask you to verify the connectors have not backed out) Check all lamps that dim when the headlamps are on. ( all switches , like the window switches, 4 wd switch, heater control, rear defroster etc. We need to determine if it is only the dash lamps or is it all the lights that are control by the dimming circuit.

As far as the mirror /compass control, check to see if the back up lamps come on. Power is fed to the mirror through the SIR fuse in the underhood fuse box. This circuit also feeds the backup lamp control to the BCM. So if the back up lamps come on then the mirror should be getting ignition power. ( I have seen the mirror plug back out, so verify it is seated .

The audio amp is located under the center console. To get to it you need to remove both front seats.( because the inner seat bolt cover up two straps that hold the console in) Then the center console can be removed to access the amp. ( it is about 4"x6" in size)

Using an ohm meter to check speaker wires is the best way to verify them. this requires disconnecting the affected speaker plug and the amp . Test the wires to ground to rule out any direct short. Then verify between the two wires. There should be no continuity to ground or between the two wires. Next you can check the wire end to end and this time there should be continuity on both wires, verifying the wire is in good condition. You can test the speaker by swapping it side to side on the vehicle. If it works on the left side and the wires test good and no signs of chaffing to the wires is found inside the door, then replace the amp. NOTE if the circuit is shorted to ground the new amp will blow as soon as it is plugged in. These amps are not protected, so careful inspection of the circuit is critical.

If you have access to a tech 2 scanner that you can read body control module (BCM)codes, that would be help full in diagnosing the lamp issue. Body control functions don't turn on a tell tale lamp to indicate a problem. Note the code will start with a "B000" and not a P000. P codes are for power train issues, and B codes are for body control function issues.

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Solution: Ok, the TBC 2a fuse was blown. I replaced it and the instrument/dash lights now work.

The SIR fuse was also blown. This temporarily fixed the rear view mirror and air bag light, however, this fuse now continues to blow thus losing the rear view mirror items and leaving the air bag light on. I guess I have a short some where with all these blown fuses. Is the electrical going bad or is this a simple fix??

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The electrical system is not going bad. The fuse is in place to protect the circuit from potential shorts to ground that would damage the component or wires. If the fuse keeps blowing, then you will need to inspect the circuit for shorts to ground. Normally wires behind the dash will not be the cause. Wires that pass near brackets or metal clips behind plastic panels, or are exposed to the elements, are more susceptible to possible shorts. This is where experience helps. Wire shorts, are easy to fix, but not so easy to find. The wires to the mirror have to pass through allot of sharp objects to get to the head liner. Most common wire faults are found under the door sill plates, and up the windshield "a" pillars. Check there first. Then install a 10 amp circuit breaker in the fuse. Also if you have an old door buzzer, you can wire it across the circuit breaker terminals. This will allow you to move wire harnesses to get the circuit to short. When it does the circuit breaker will open and the door buzzer will sound letting you know your getting close to the area of the short. There are short finders available that are made just like this.

What ever you do, do not install a larger fuse. This will only cause damage to the wires. There not as big as in older vehicles.18 ga, to 22 ga are the most common size wire in this vehicle.

This Will Help.

Thanks.